A Travel Guide to The Northern Areas of Pakistan – Stunningly Beautiful and Safe to Travel

by Muhammad Asad

Northern areas of Pakistan are considered as paradise on earth among regular travellers. These areas are beyond the grip of ongoing terrorism. Terrorism in Pakistan is only on those areas where Pushtuns population lives or controls the areas. The situation is the same as it was in Sri Lanka where civil war or terrorism was confined to Tamil community areas or big cities where Tamils were visiting or living. The same situation is in Pakistan where terrorism is mostly in big cities and in Pushtun community areas. In this travel guide, tourists are informed about only those areas where no law and order situation has been indicated and these area are known as very friendly and peaceful areas.

The Karakoram Highway >>>

The Karakoram Highway, or KKH, is the greatest wonder of modern Pakistan and one of the most spectacular roads in the world. Connecting Pakistan to China, it twists through three great mountain ranges – the Himalaya, Karakoram and Pamir – following one of the ancient silk routes along the valleys of the Indus, Gilgit and Hunza rivers to the Chinese border at the Khunjerab Pass. It then crosses the high Central Asian plateau before winding down through the Pamirs to Kashgar, at the western edge of the Taklamakan Desert. By this route, Chinese silks, ceramics, lacquer-work, bronze, iron, furs and spices travelled west, while the wool, linen, ivory, gold, silver, precious and semi-precious stones, asbestos and glass of South Asia and the West travelled East.

For much of its 1,284 kms (905 miles), the Karakoram Highway is overshadowed by towering, barren mountains, a high altitude desert enjoying less than 100 millimetres (four inches) of rain a year. In many of the gorges through which it passes, it rides a shelf cut into a sheer cliff face as high as 500 meters (1,600 feet) above the river. The KKH has opened up remote villages where little has changed in hundreds of years, where farmers irrigate tiny terraces to grow small patches of wheat, barely or maize that stand out like emeralds against the grey, stony mountains. The highway is an incredible feat of engineering and an enduring monument to the 810 Pakistanis and 82 Chinese who died forcing it through what is probably the worlds most difficult and unstable terrain. (The unofficial death toll is somewhat higher, coming to nearly one life for each kilometre of road).

The Karakoram and the Himalaya, the newest mountain ranges in the world, began to form some 5 million years ago when the Indian sub-continent drifted northwards and rammed into the Asian land mass. By this time the dinosaurs were already extinct. Indian subcontinent is still trundling northwards at the geologically reckless rate of five centimetres (two inches) a year, and the mountains are still growing by about seven millimetres (1/4 of an inch), annually. The KKH runs through the middle of this collision belt, where there is an earth tremor, on average, every three minutes. Karakoram is Turkish for ‘crumbling rock’, an apt description for the giant, gray, snow-capped slag heaps that tower above the gorges cut between them.

The Indus River flows northwest, dividing the Himalaya from the Karakoram, before turning south at the Hindu Kush. The KKH hugs the banks of the Indus for 310 kilometres of its climb north, winding around the foot of Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest mountain in the world and the western anchor of the Himalaya. The highway then leaves the Indus for the Gilgit, Hunza and Khunjerab rivers to take on the Karakoram Range, which boasts 12 of the 30 highest peaks in the world. By the time the road reaches the 4,733 meter (15,528 foot) Khunjerab Pass, it has earned the name of the highest metalled border crossing in the world.

Gilgit

At an elevation of 1454 meters, Gilgit valley, offers spectacular scenic beauty. It is surrounded by lakes, rivers, glaciers and high mountain ranges. Some of them are the world’s highest peaks, such as Nanga Parbat, 8125 meter and Rakaposhi, 7788 meter are located here. The best time to visit is from May to mid October. The local dialect is Shina, however, Urdu and English are also spoken and understood.

Fairy Meadows has been a source of enchantment since long for back packers, climbers, wildlife researchers, photographers, painters & geologists, besides nature lovers. The pine forests skirting Fairy Meadows are perhaps one of the virgin forests in the north of Pakistan, and are home to a number of species of birds and wildlife. The site overlooks the Raikot Glacier and provides a majestic view of the North Face of Nanga Parbat, commonly known as the Raikot Face.

PLACES OF INTEREST

Fairy Meadows>

Fairy Meadows can be easily approached from the capital city of Pakistan, Islamabad. Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) operates two flights to Gilgit daily, which is the main city of Northern Areas of Pakistan. Further via silk route (KKH) up to Raikot Bridge, 76 km from Gilgit & further jeep able journey.

A road journey from Islamabad on Karakoram Highway (KKH) takes 11 hours to Chillas. From here, Raikot bridge on silk route is 61 km away. Another scenic approach by road from Rawalpindi is through the Kaghan Valley. Jeep able road passes through the Kaghan Valley via the Babusar Pass (4173 m) through Chillas, reaching the Raikot Bridge. Jeeps are available at Raikot Bridge round the clock, carrying 6 passengers on one vehicle. A small place in Jail village offers refreshments and lunch.

At Fairy Meadows Cottages, log cabins are available having the fascinating views of Nanga Parbat. Cottages have a camping site where tourists can pitch their own tents or, they can hire tents. Dining area & kitchen are located adjacent to camping site. Toilets & baths can be reached very comfortably from cabins & tents. The whole area is demarcated with a controlled access and the tourists are free to enjoy the privacy within the vicinity.

The famous day hike from Fairy Meadows is for Beyal Camp & the Base Camp of Nanga Parbat. Friendly and experienced mountain guides, who are familiar with the terrain, accompany the visitor, taking them to different treks. Staff at cottages is experienced and help trekkers in planning their routes. Camping equipment & food can also be arranged for these treks. Natural rock climbing pitch is a part of this beautiful setting, where climbing may be practiced under the supervision of well trained staff.

Karimabad

Miles and miles of terraced fields and fruit orchards mark Karimabad, the capital of Hunza Valley. It offers a panoramic view of the Rakaposhi, Ultar and Balimo peaks. It is 112 kms from Gilgit and it takes about 3 hours by jeep to cover the distance.

Punial

Sher Qila is the main village of the picturesque Punial valley. The distance is 40 kms and time required to reach there is about 2 hours.

Singal

This spot in the Punial valley offers ideal trout fishing opportunities. It is 56 kms away and takes 3 hours to get there.

Yasin

A valley providing ideal opportunities for hiking and trekking, it lies at a distance of 160 kms and the jeep journey requires about 7 hours.

Phandar

This picturesque area has a lake which abounds in trout. It is about 177 kms away and the time required to get there is about 8 hours.

Shandur Pass >

This 1250 feet long pass connects Gilgit to Chitral. The pass remains snow-bound during winters. It is 250 kms and 15 hours away by jeep.

Rama

A lake in this region offers an awe-inspiring view of the eastern side of Nanga Parbat, 8126 meters high. It is 120 kms away and takes 6 hours to get there. For the adventure-loving tourist, hiker, angler, art-lover, mountaineer or polo enthusiast, there are a few places in the world that could compare with Gilgit.

Naltar

Naltar is the ideal full day outing from Gilgit. About a two-hour drive away, it is an area of alpine meadows and pine forests 3,000 meters (10,000 feet) above sea level and surrounded by snow-capped mountains. The road up from Nomal climbs steeply through a rocky gorge to emerge on the fertile, high-altitude pastures. Those who wish to stay can choose among the Public Works Department rest-house, the very basic local hotel, or camping. Naltar is the perfect base for gentle walks through the forest or up to Naltar Lake, where the fishing is excellent. The village is also the starting point for more energetic treks across the 4,000 meter (13,000 feet) Naltar Pass to the Ishkoman Valley, or across the 4,800 meter (15,700 feet) Daintar Pass to Chalt. The two ski-lifts at Naltar are reserved for army use.

Hunza

Hunza has been ruled by the family known as Mirs of Hunza for 960 years. Hunzakuts are believed to be the descendents of five wandering soldiers of Alexander the Great. The people of Hunza speak Brushuski, an aboriginal language. This princely state retained its isolated independence for a long time in the remote part of the areas which now form the Northern Areas of Pakistan adjoining the Sinkiang Autonomous Region of China.

During early nineteenth century, Hunza resented Kashmir’s attempts to gain control and its rulers periodically expelled Kashmir garrisons, threatened Gilgit, and politicked with the rulers of Kashgar to the north where the Russians were gaining influence. Fearing Russians infiltration into their northern frontiers, the British took over direct political control at Gilgit in 1889. Fratricidal intrigues in Hunza and Nagar made the areas doubly insecure. This, coupled with the Mir of Hunza’s consistent intransigence induced the British to march on Hunza in December 1891, where they fought a decisive battle at Nilit, 60 km beyond Diaynor Bridge. After this the British garrisoned Aliabad until 1897 when Hunza became a princely state protected by the Government of British India. After Pakistan was created in 1947, the people of Hunza also gained liberation and the princely state was merged in Pakistan.

Baltit Fort

The Baltit Fort is a kilometer away from Karimabad. It was built 700 years ago by 30 labourers brought to Hunza in the dowry of the Princess of Baltistan when she married Mir of Hunza. The area is named Baltit after those labourers. Over the centuries it has been inhabited by the ruling family of the Hunza State.

Buddhist Rock Carving

The rock carving and inscriptions around Ganesh village give proof of the Buddhist influence in the area. The inscriptions are in four different scripts and the carvings are of human and animals figures.

Batura, Passu, Hopper, Hisper Glacier

Batura Passu glacier is 35 kms from Karimabad while the Hopper and Hisper glaciers are 25 kms away. The journey takes two hours by jeep and the last two kilometres have to be traveled on foot.

Altit Fort

Altit fort is situated in the village of Altit about three kilometres from Karimabad. It has been built on a sheer rock cliff that falls 300 meters (1,000 feet) into the Indus river. The fort is a100 years older than the Baltit Fort and was at one time inhabited by the ruling family.

Ultar Peak

The Ultar peak known as the killer mountain is the only un-conquered peak.

Nagar

Nagar, the large kingdom across the river from Hunza, was possibly first settled by people from Baltistan who arrived over the mountains by walking along the Biafo and Hispar glaciers. It was settled again in about the 14th century by Hunzakuts who crossed the river. A man called Borosh from Hunza supposedly founded the first village of Boroshal, and married a Balti girl he found there. The legend says the girl and her grandmother were the sole survivors of a landslide that killed all the early Balti settlers.

Nagar is entered by a jeep road that leaves the KKH just beyond the Ganesh Bridge across the Hunza River. The first five kilometres (three miles) of this road are dry and barren, then the road divides.

Once branch crosses the Hispar River on a bridge and climbs up into the fertile villages of central Nagar, where many kilometres of irrigation channels provide pleasant walks through fields and villages right up to the last village of Hoper. You can get here by public transport from Aliabad in Hunza, which leaves most days for Nagar, and occasionally continues to Hopar.

The KKH Beyond Karimabad

The KKH is at its most spectacular between Ganesh and Gulmit. The road rides high on the eastern side of the river, twisting and turning round the barren foot of the Hispar Range, which boasts six peaks over 7,000 meters (23,000 feet). On the opposite bank, villages cling implausibly to the side of the 7,388 meter (24,240 foot) Ultar Mountain. Between the villages, gray screen slithers down to the river, looking in the distance like piles of fine cigarette ash. Above the jagged teeth along the ridge lie the highest snow-covered peaks. from view.

The KKH crosses back to the west bank at Shishkot Bridge, from which the view upstream of the serrated ridge of mountains above the river is one of the most photogenic of the entire drive. From here to Tashkurgan in China the people speak Wakhi.

Gulmit

Eight kms past the bridge, is a fertile plateau 2,500 meter (8,200 feet) high, with irrigated fields on either side of the road. This is a good place to spend a night or two, marking the halfway point between Gilgit and the Khunjerab Pass. The small museum here belongs to the prince, Raja Bahadur Khan, and is full of interesting ethnic artifacts. And two of the hotels here belong to Mirzada Shah Khan, hero of the 1947 mutiny.

The rock and gravel covered Ghilkin Glacier comes right down to the road about one kilometer (just over half a mile) past Gulmit. The road crosses the snout of the glacier at the very edge of the river, then climbs up on to the lateral moraine – a great, gray slagheap. About five kilometres further on, you round a corner to find Passu Glacier straight ahead. Above the glacier to the left is the jagged line of the Passu and Batua peaks, seven of which are over 7,500 meters (25,000 feet). On the opposite side of the river, which you can cross over a terrifying footbridge, the valley is hemmed in by a half-circle of saw-toothed summits, down the flanks of which slide grey alluvial fans. Passu is a village of farmers and mountain guides 15 kilometres beyond Gulmit. This is the setting-off point for climbing expeditions up the Batura, Passu, Kurk and Lupgar groups of peaks, and for trekking trips up the Shimshal Valley and Batura Glacier. The Passu Inn, right beside the road, is the meeting place for mountaineers and guides.

The KKH passes through four more villages before reaching the immigration and customs post at Sost, 33 kilometres from Passu. Outgoing traffic must pass through Sost before 11 am. It is a four or five hour drive from here to Tashkurgan, and you must allow time for clearing Chinese customs and immigration two kilometres before Tashkurgan (moved down from Pirali). The time difference between China and Pakistan is three hours, so it will be around 7 to 8 pm Chinese time before you arrive in Tashkurgan. Incoming traffic is processed until 4 pm Pakistani time, 7 pm Chinese time.

From Sost to Tashkurgan

PTDC and NATCO run daily buses from Sost to Tashkurgan. For the first 30 kilometres from Sost, the valley is narrow and barren, the cliff-face shattered into huge cubes and slabs that peel off and tumble down to the road, where they lie like forgotten building blocks belonging to giant children. The road leaves Hunza for the Khunjerab River, and there is more of the same, with alluvial fans flowing down every gully, frequently blocking the way. Khunjerab National Park begins 30 kilometres from Sost. The hills move back from the road, the valley opens out and the Khunjerab River dwindles to a tiny mountain stream with the odd tuft of grass, willow or birch along its banks.

The check-post at Dih consists of six lonely stone houses. The last 30 kilometres to the top of the pass are easier driving, as there is less mountain above and the slopes are gentler. The road follows the banks of the stream before winding up round 12 wide, well-engineered hairpin bends to the top.

The Khunjerab Pass, at 4,733 meters (15,528 feet), is reputedly the highest metalled border crossing in the world. A red sign announces ‘China drive right’, and a rival green sign says ‘Pakistan drive left’. A monument declares that the highway was opened in 1982 and indulges in a bit of hyperbole by saying that the pass is at 16,000 feet (4,875 meters). The Khunjerab is on a continental watershed. All water on the Pakistani side flows down to the Indian Ocean, while that on the Chinese side is swallowed by the Taklamakan Desert, the name of which means, if you go in, you don’t come out.

The abandoned Chinese border post at Pirali is about 32 kilometres from the top of the pass. The scenery is remarkably different on the two sides of the pass. The Pakistani side is a vertical world of desert gorges devoid of any sign of human life for the last 30 kilometres except for the road itself. The Chinese side is wide, open and grassy high-altitude plateau with grazing herds of yaks, sheep and goats tended by Tajik herders. Children and dogs romp among round felt tents called yurts. The Tajiks are a smiling and friendly lot, and the women are as happy to be photographed as the men. Even the camels are altogether different animals. Pakistani camels are tall, short-haired, one-humped Bactrains that appear to wear hairy, knee-length shorts.

For more information and advisories, visit www.ecotourism.org.pk

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